Hat Head Hiker

Morning all,

If you’re reading this then delayed release works, and I’m still in the northern territory. I’ll be back in a few weeks. I’ve skipped a very dull update of equipment post, suffice to say I have a new bag (Osprey Exos 48), tent (Vango Banshee 200), and sleeping bag (Vango Ultralight 600) for camping up north. Anyway, let’s see what I have to say…

Having got a few new things for my time up in the Northern territory, I figured I should test them out before heading up there. This led to a good walk which I’ve been contemplating since first seeing the Smoky Cape lighthouse (and which I used in the gratuitous “good view” picture in a previous post), down to Hat Head and back, but has only been possible with then addition of a tent to my inventory. Well that’s not quite true. It’s approx 50km there and back (a bit over 30 miles), so starting early in the morning, walking at a fair pace all day and finishing late at night you could just about make it… but I’m not that way inclined. I like to dawdle and take in the views.

So with bag packed and a bowl of porridge (my hiking breakfast weapon of choice) consumed, I set off from Arakoon at around 7 in the morning. The walk from Arakoon to Smokey Cape Lighthouse starts with a fairly steep ascent through a lovely bit of rainforest. This was a good test of my new rucksack and its contents, during which all I could think was “how flippin’ heavy is this flippin’ rucksack? what can I lose from it?”. Unfortunately this seems to be what happens when you add a few kilograms of tent and sleeping bag, and a few kilograms of food and water to your bag. After that initial incline however, I quickly got used to the weight of the bag and found that it sits quite comfortably with the hip belt properly adjusted (this takes a bit of tinkering to get correct).

Over the top of the hills to the lighthouse was pretty easy going, along some well marked paths. The last time I’d done this section it was very wet and very leechy, but not this time. The sun was out and there was virtually no evidence of another human being until the lighthouse. A very pleasant hour or so. As I reached the lighthouse I stopped for some water and a handful of dried fruit and nuts (my preference for hiking nibbles) and happened to spot a Southern Right Whale from the lookout (the second time I’d spotted a whale there, though for some reason at Arakoon the whales seem to be heading further out to sea). I also had a great view of the walk to come. With the sun up and a nice downhill stretch to start with, I got on my way.

The view of Hat Head (the far distant headland) from Smokey Cape Lighthouse

The view of Hat Head (the far distant headland) from Smokey Cape Lighthouse

At the base of the lighthouse hill there is a small and fairly basic campsite, where I encountered a bunch of backpackers chucking a ball around and playing (very loud and apparently tuneless) music. Why they weren’t on the beach about 50m away is beyond me, but each to their own I guess. From there I started walking the 17km of South Smokey beach toward Hat Head. Fortunately the sand is pretty firm, so it’s not too tiring to walk along. Among the other beach users were tons of fishermen, a few surfers, a few dog walkers, and a few motorcyclists. Interestingly the latter two of these groups aren’t actually permitted on the beach, but it seems to be one of those areas where the council say it’s National Parks’ area, and National Parks say it’s the council’s area, so no one actually polices it, and so effectively anyone can do anything (including the laziest dog walk I’ve ever seen, where the dog was put on the beach and just chased after the car while they drove back to the entrance). One of the motorcyclists was at least kind enough to stop and offer me a lift, however as I had big bag, no crash helmet, and at least an iota of common sense I declined the offer.

Beaches are often used as highways for fisher people.

Beaches are often used as highways for fisher people.

The walk continued passing many fishermen (and fisherwomen… should this be fisher people?) and chatting with a fair few along the way. I was also stopping every 10 or 15 minutes to take photos of the vegetation along the beach, as requested by the Dunecare group (I think they’re considering expanding their conservation territory further south), which turns out to be pretty much 17km of sand and Bitou Bush (an invasive weed which dominates sand dune ecosystems). Hopefully once those photos are incorporated into the area’s conservation map there might be some effort to regenerate the area… if they can get some grants (the constant struggle).

During this relatively flat and easy walk I was very impressed with how my rucksack sat, only really coming a-cropper when I got hungry. Fortunately however, in Hat Head among the many, many holiday homes, there was a small general store, where I picked up an ice cream and some cereal bars (nothing like a load of sugar to boost the energy reserves). By this point it was about 2, and so there were only around 3 hours of daylight left. Time to turn back.

On the way back north I passed a lot more fisher people, most of whom were very talkative and seemed interested in my story (and why the badgers I’d just walked to Hat Head and was now going back). I also met another walker, though he was only out for a brief beach stroll, who said he’d walked from Hat Head to the lighthouse and back last year… and then his toe nail had fallen off. I’m pretty sure that normally happens because your shoes are too tight, suffice to say I had no intention of suffering the same fate. I continued along, and steadily the fisherpeople all went home, leaving the beach all to me as the sun set.

With the light dying, I decided to set up camp (with specific permission from the local national parks ranger to camp there), and so hopped over into the first dunes to avoid the wind. This was (I think) my first experience of setting up a tent in sand, and I did find one or two little issues. The first was that tent pegs in sand are not awfully sturdy. The second was that within seconds the tent was full of sand. Not to worry though, the spot was so sheltered that there was no wind at all, and it was all very comfortable. Unfortunately with the light fading and the wind non-existant, the mosquitoes started to come out… time for an early night and a bit of reading, though not before watching the stars for a while (they’re really quite spectacular, though unfortunately I’m currently failing miserably to get good photos of them).

My tent all set for the night.

My tent all set for the night.

Though it wasn’t a particularly cold night, my sleeping bag and roll mat did an admirable job, keeping me very cosy through the night. I woke up around 5:30 to catch the sunrise, and it was well worth it (check out that view!). One bowl of porridge (and tent disassembly) later, and I was back walking up the beach in the glorious cool of the early morning (taking a lot of sunrise photos as I went). As ever, when packing my bag again things didn’t quite go as tetris-smooth as they had when I packed in the house, but I was impressed with how neatly everything did fit back in. As an added little farewell treat from the beach, I spotted a pair of Southern Right Whales about 50-100m off the shore, one of which was tail slapping like a mad…er… whale.

Yet another snazzy sunrise.

Yet another snazzy sunrise.

Having left the beach I headed back along the road through some fantastic forest (Australian national parks are really something to behold), before stopping off at the Smokey Cape Retreat cafe (quite possibly my favourite cafe in the area) for a well deserved coffee and (large) piece of chocolate brownie, and where I’m currently writing this post (how’s that for efficiency?).

In total I’m quite happy with my packing setup. The bag is comfortable to carry, the tent and sleeping bag are very comfortable to sleep in, and the rest of my stuff continues to work as well as it always has. My only negative thought is that I’m sure somewhere in all this gear I can lose some weight to make it easier to carry. I’m sure after 5 weeks in the Northern Territory I’ll know what, if anything, can be culled… or maybe I’ll just develop some muscles and get over it.

Until next time


One response to “Hat Head Hiker

  1. Sounds a decent hike. Wow, 17km of beach! But surprise surprise the dunes are full of an invasive. I think the council should set you to work weeding it all, since you must be an expert by now…

    It does feel exhilaratingly free to have everything you need on your back and time to go where ever you like (though that feeling diminishes with every extra kg of weight). Can you get hold of a bivvy bag? I’ve been meaning to buy one for ages.

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